See Japanese instructions
for making menstrual belts and pads at home in
the early 20th century.
More belt topics
Actual belts in the
museum
See how women wore
a belt (and in a Swedish ad) - many actual 20th-century
belts - a modern
belt for a washable pad and a page from
the 1946-47 Sears
catalog showing a great variety - ad for
Hickory belts,
1920s? - Modess belts
in Personal Digest (1966) - drawing for a
proposed German belt
and pad, 1894
See Japanese instructions
for making menstrual belts and pads at home in
the early 20th century.
See a prototype of
the first Kotex ad.
See more Kotex items: Ad 1928 (Sears and Roebuck catalog)
- Marjorie May's Twelfth
Birthday (booklet for girls, 1928,
Australian edition; there are many links here to
Kotex items) - 1920s booklet in Spanish showing
disposal method -
box from about 1969 -
Preparing for Womanhood
(1920s, booklet for girls) - "Are
you in the know?" ads (Kotex) (1949)(1953)(1964)(booklet, 1956) - See
more ads on the Ads for
Teenagers main page
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Early Japanese ads for menstrual belts, part 1
(part 2, 3)
Japan influences England
influences Japan: artist Aubrey Beardsley
In 1998 a Japanese college
student, Tomoko Maeno, kindly sent a
copy of her study of the history of
Japanese menstrual products to this
museum.
Below and on the following pages I
reproduce several ads for menstrual
hygiene from the early 20th century
from her thesis. Unfortunately,
apart from a few of the student's
notes and a summary, everything is
in Japanese. Hello? So what did I
expect? But I did commission Mrs.
Akiko Roller, of Washington, D.C.,
to translate part of the text about
underpants
and homemade
pads.
One ad, below, rang a bell;
it looked like a drawing from the
English artist Aubrey
Beardsley, who died at 25 in
1898 from tuberculosis. (I think he's
England's greatest artist.) So I
flipped through my Beardsley books and
found,
amazingly, the exact drawing the
ad's based on (below, right)!
Japanese
wood-block prints called
ukiyo-e ("images of the fleeting [or
floating] world," which meant the
world of pleasure: theater, geisha,
prostitutes, etc.), published for a
wealthy merchant class, influenced
Beardsley and other European artists
after the pictures arrived in European
ports in the mid-19th century as
stuffing in boxes of merchants' goods.
They captivated Impressionists and,
near the end of the century, artists
of the Art Nouveau ("New Art" in
French) movement, who made many
Japanese features their own, including
flatness, few or no shadows, bold
crops of subject matter, and
astounding lines.
Here's one of my interpretations of
what's happening below. The Japanese
artist based his or her drawing on a
Beardsley drawing, thus allowing Art
Nouveau artist Beardsley, himself
greatly influenced by Japan, to in
turn influence the Japanese artist! I
wonder if the fact that the belt has
an English name, Victoria
(also the name of the beloved British
queen who died in 1901), means that
the belt itself is an English import (see an American ad for
The New Victoria belt and pad
holder), maybe even carrying
with it the Beardsley influence. Later
Japanese menstrual products also often
bear English words (Elldy - L D -
tampons, for instance, and Hello
Kitty).
Or maybe the artist was British and
remade the Beardsley drawing in
England for the English brand, which
was then sent to Japan.
As you see, right below, the belts look like
American and European models of the
time, maybe meaning they were
imports or copies of Western belts. On
the other hand, Japan
had
its own traditional belt called the
pony (see
a later
version of it), a homemade belt
preceding the commercial model, which
looked like the Victoria. There aren't
too many ways to make a belt and pad.
More Beardsley and
menstruation.
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Compare and
contrast these Japanese and
American commercial belts dating
from before 1920.
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The Japanese Victoria
Band (belt), for which you
will see many ads on these next
pages.
See many other early
Japanese styles.
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The American Venus, or
Sanitary Protector, from
Sears, Roebuck, 1902.
See this and more Sears belts from 1908.
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But see the
American ad, above, for The New Victoria menstrual pad &
belt from about this time.
Are these last two copied from one
another?
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Below: A Japanese
belt ad derived from an Aubrey
Beardsley illustration.
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An ad for the Victoria menstrual
pad belt (in the circle),
1921, from an unknown Japanese
publication.
The
artist seems to have adapted the
Beardlsey drawing, right, for the
picture of the woman. Not
only is the whole drawing similar, the
details, below, are too.
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John
the Baptist and Salome,
published in 1907, by Aubrey
Beardsley, a detail of one of the
drawings illustrating Oscar Wilde's
play Salome.
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Look how the breasts tilt at
different angles in the two
drawings, "reversed" in a sense, as
are the ends of the two fold lines in
the fabric falling from her hand near
the right breast. The Japanese artist
made the breasts appear nude, as the
Beardsley breasts are, although they
are covered.
A crescent moon
sits on the hairdo of each.
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The four large "dots"
on the line forming the left boundary
of her clothing, as well as elsewhere,
are identical in position.
Among the differences
is the Beardsley navel, unique
as are many of Beardsley's touches in
his art.
Two things missing
in the ad are the feeling of evil pervading much of
Beardsley's work, and his genius.
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Left: Beardsley
dots dance around the areolas of
Salome, making them flowers with nipples
for stamens.
More flowers grow,
below.
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The flowers - chrysanthemums
(the flower of the Japanese royal
family, I believe)? roses? -
creep to the Japanese ad fabric,
above, from behind the Beardsley
figure.
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The Beardsley flowers,
above, suitably thorned, writhe to the
right of Salome.
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The ad, above, repeats
the Beardsley crescent
moons, right.
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Detail from The Courtesan
Takihawa of Ohgi-ya, from the
series Selected
Beauties in the Gay Quarters
(gay meaning pleasureful, not
homosexual, although it possibly could
include that), about 1795, by Eishi.
This wood block woman shows a pose
similar to that of our ladies,
as does the Heine drawing, right,
although both bodies are directed the
other way. You can see how this kind
of art influenced Beardsley with its
lines and lack of shadow - "flatness."
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This detail from an
illustration (1908) for Friedrich
Hebbel's Judith,
by Thomas Th. Heine, shows a similar
pose.
Heine (this is not
Heinrich Heine, the 19th century
writer) was part of the German Art
Nouveau, called Jugendstil, meaning
"in the style of the magazine called
'Youth'" (Jugend), an extraordinary
magazine of the era.
I
did not find a Japanese original of
the Beardsley woman in my library,
making it more likely it was
original with him - which is what I
would have expected of the artist.
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Below: two
more pose examples: while visiting
the Freer Gallery in Washington
recently (2013) I saw Utamaro's
hanging scroll Moonlight Revelry
at Dozo Sagami (probably late
18th century), showing "an elite
pleasure house" according
to the wall sign. These
are portions of that scroll.
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© 1999 Harry
Finley. It is illegal to reproduce
or distribute work on this Web site
in any manner or medium without
written permission of the author.
Please report suspected violations
to hfinley@mum.org
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